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GRAND BAZAAR |

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The
Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı in Turkish) in Istanbul is one of
the largest covered markets (Bazaar) in the world with more than 58
streets and 4000 shops. It is well-known for its jewelry, pottery,
spice and carpet shops. Many of the stalls in the bazaar are grouped
by type of good, with regions for leather coats, gold jewelry and
the like. The bazaar contains two bedestens, or domed masonry
structures built for storage and safe keeping, the first of which
was constructed in 1464 by the order of Mehmed II. In 1894, it
underwent major restoration after an earthquake. It has
250,000-400,000 daily visitors.
In
the Eastem culture, the wealth of trade shows itself not in the
decoration and extemal appearance of the shops, but with the
abundance and value of the merchandise. What made the Grand Bazaar
rich was thus the abundance of goods and the variety of crafts
applied. The stores used to be so smail and tidy that they were
called 'closets'. The owner would sit cross-legged on a knee high
platform, reach the shelves easily and without having to stand up,
and make his sale. Some closets would have smail chairs placed in
front of them for customers. At night they would be sealed with
hanging covers of plain cloth or pulldown shutters tied with strings
to the ceiling, most of them decorated with flower motifs. Every day
at dawn, the shop runners would gather before the gate and enter the
bazaar together, say a prayer together in front of their closets and
then start the day. |
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This
bazaar was a whole world itself with its bedestens (block of shops
with the same kind of trade), commercial complexes, workshops, and
streets between the structures where jewels, valuable goods,
delicate fabrics, carpets, silverware, glassware and books were sold
and different cultures stood together. The two stone bedestens that
Fatih Sultan Mehmet got built for a supply of income for the Hagia
Sophia was surrounded in time by open-air bazaars. Then the entire
structure was enclosed to become a whole big trade center with its
inner streets and working complexes.. And there formed an enclosed
marketplace with all the colours and wealth of the Ottoman whole
with its Turkish, Greek,' Armenian and jewish people. The streets
and avenues were named after the types of tradespeople that worked
in them, like the miniaturists, carvers, varak (gold or silver leaj)
omamentors, swordmakers, broadcloth sellers, nacre processors,
mirror makers, carpet sellers, antiquarians, and traders of
secondhand artifacts.
Among
the whole lot, next to those who were keeping alive the jobs or
craftmanships that were the legacy of their fathers or grandfathers,
there were also those that arrived at a very young age, passed their
youths and now were at the realization of the wisdom of their
present age.
The
bazaar was shaken by fire incidents and earthquakes from time to
time, but each time it was repaired back into life. The
Westernization that started in the Ottoman structure in 1839 was
soan niflected in the Grand Bazaar, too. The modernization gained
speed after the great eartquake that shook Istanbul in 1894. Western
breezes blew everywhere, manifesting themselves in the merchandise
and the setting up of the shops. |

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The
Grand Bazaar includes more than 4000 stores taday, and it is
surrounded on all sides by tens of hans (commereial buildings). The
hans that used to host caravans now host workshops where many goods
are manufactured. In the Valde Han that was built in 1650 and has a
set of stairs with 200 steps, there is no longer any sale. Carpet
washing and repairs are carried out in the Mercan Ali Pasa Han and
the Cebeci Han.
Coloured
Anatolian weavings can be found in the Mercan Cukur Han, and beds,
blankets and linen in the Safran Han. Another of the most beautiful
hans in the bazaar is the Zincirli Han. Jewellery processors are the
majority here, and it has pink-painted walls that soften even the
greyest air in winter. In Cebeci Han, on the other hand, you can
find port-hale lids, bells, fans, watches, to torches, propellers,
anchors in the shop where second-hand sea materials are said, get
your carpets repaired in carpet repairing workshops and find
replicas of old artifacts at the coppersmith 's shop in the corner.
One of the two bedestens that form the core of the bazaar is the Ic
Bedesten (inner bedesten), a.k.a. the Cevahir Bedesteni.
The
other is the Sandal Bedesteni, taking its name from a kind of fabric
woven using silk and cotton threads alternately for each line. This
is where you get attracted by the gleam of antiquities. You can find
antique specialists for ancient objects, porcelains, silver,
ceramics and ornamented engravings, and tour the stores filled up
with ancient, valuable and beautiful artifacts. You can touch coffee
cups of finest porcelain, silver cigarette boxes from the 18th
century, spoons, glasses, candlesticks with stems of coloured glass,
and see the jewels of the Ottoman era. |

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Carpets,
kilims, sumachs, 'cicim's... Next to the traditional carpets coming
from Usak, Gordes, Sivas, Ladik, Kayseri, Konya, and Hereke, the
tulles flowing in from the east of Konya plain are also worthy of
attention.There are also the Filikli spreads, the production of
which has stopped since many years ago. The fabrics known as Angora
or mohair used to be woven in 60 cm wide and 200 cm long pieces,
then brought together in threes tir fours to form wall covers, bed
spreads or sitting groups. These, too, are among the artifacts that
come out of the trunks of the Grand Bazaar.
The
Grand Bazaar is a whole culture in itself, a whole wride ocean that
has preserved its existence for many centuries. Let's enter into the
gleaming world of the Grand Bazaar through one of its 18 gates, find
its hidden prizes and mix into its cultural atmoshphere. |
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